Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. We don’t have a paywall and you don’t have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Slesse Peak, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit. Assistant coroner John Quickley elected to climb Mount Slesse with several amateur mountain climbers. Please submit any useful information about climbing Slesse Peak that may be useful to other climbers. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Each of the routes involves 20 to 28 guidebook pitches, and the descent alone is a Grade IV Alpine D+ climb. Privacy Notice: Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services. Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down, "Computers make it easier to do a lot of things, but most of the things they make it easier to do don't need to be done." The west face of the mountain towers 6,398 feet over Slesse Creek. 2500ft of stellar climbing! Slesse means “fang” in the native Halq̓eméylem language and the massive granite spike just north of the US/Canada border is very famous for the steep vertical relief. Mt. (2) Approximate line of 2017 free variation to the east face of Slesse. We found the crystalline gneiss provided great grip for hands and rockshoes; perfect finger and hand-sized cracks; and holds just when we needed them. There are logistical problems to work through. Living in the Northwest, John always wanted to climb the NE Buttress of Mount Slesse, but a variety of reasons have delayed him. It was just a coincidence that Steven and I climbed it within just a few days of one another, despite both of us probably … The route up the NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain (aka Mount Slesse). Check out what is happening on Mt. This is the crux pitch (5.9+) of the Northeast Buttress. The Northeast Buttress is known to be one of the finest sustained rock climbs in the Cascades and sits in an area neither of the Roskelleys had visited. Now I’m the proud one. Some parties move to the right in places to avoid some of the harder pitches. My dad is a tough old man!”. Just a few days after Steven climbed Slesse via the standard route, Itai (my friend from Israel) and I went up to climb it via the classic NE buttress. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). This is a superb rock climb of moderate difficulty. A couple of my trip reports did get featured which was nice. It is also … Writing about 'The Corkscrew' on Cerro Torre has proven to be a bit of a task, so I'm posting this first, to get some content up on this page. The buttress etches the sky in a beautiful sweep. (This photo was taken from the Memorial Plaque on the east side of Slesse on a hike in 2006). Slesse NE Buttress is a route inside of Slesse Mountain. 13. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). This only adds to the adventure! Perry Beckham, Greg Child and Joe Buszowski attempted the route in the early 1980s and dubbed the couloir between the Northeast Ridge and North Rib, the Heart of Darkness. I know that my last post was about the same mountain, as if the only thing I climb is Slesse Mountain, but I promise that a story about my Patagonia trip is in the works. (5). But it didn’t interfere with our enjoyment of the climb.”. When To Climb. John Roskelley is the only American to win the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. Slesse! All routes require roped climbing and there are nine different ones. While this is an incredible objective, an ambiance of dread hangs over Mount Slesse that has nothing to do with climbing. MAP Rated 5.9 with up to 25 pitches, apparently most climbers either bivy … CFL history has been coming to life in TSN's Engraved On A Nation documentary series (full videos of the films and behind-the-scenes information available here), and the latest entry, "The Crash," did an excellent job of exploring the 1956 Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810 crash that killed 62 people, including five Canadian … I've got more.... ....that hasn't received enough attention. Picture of Slesse Memorial Trail British Columbia Canada. Be the first to submit your climbing note! It’s like we switched places. Chilliwack, BC - Slesse Mountain NOTE: CLICK IMAGES FOR A LARGER FORMAT . Resources Activity. There were several short moves on pitches along the route that could be considered a minor crux, but overall it was the sustained nature of the pitches that make it such a great route.”. Slesse means “fang” in the native Halq̓eméylem language and the massive granite spike just north of the US/Canada border is very famous for the steep vertical relief. “We stayed close to the center of the rib, and followed a system of cracks, chimneys and nice holds. The Notheast Buttress of Slesse Mountain is a Grade V, 5.10- alpine rock climb in the rugged Chilliwack region just north of the United States-Canadian border. But we can’t do it without you.Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the climbing world. Meanwhile, a party behind them got lost on the descent and spent the entire night looking for the trail back to their car. Its an easy trail to follow with a new'ish bridge over the Nesakwatch river and follows an old logging road for about 1/2 the distance. Actually it's quite rewarding knowing you've given everything. Hiking info, trail maps, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain (2,439 m) in the Cascades of British Columbia. I had now climbed the Northeast Buttress of Slesse too many times in summer, but in winter I hoped that the climb would regain much of the mystique and formidable aura it had possessed in my younger years. Slesse Mountain at 2375 metres (7800 ft.) high is a popular, exhilarating peak. He was always so proud of me when he would take me on a long climb as a kid. Very few routes climb these walls, and there’s an almost mythical, mystical air about Slesse, despite its low altitude (ca 2,400m). The NE Buttress of Slesse is a long and classic climb up a very intimidating mountain and draws climbers from all over the Pacific NW. Note the looming overhanging section. With a grin, Jess says, “I watched my dad slow down a bit on the descent. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. It provides fine clean climbing with four different routes to the summit. Slesse Mountain : SummitPost.org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. They are already done, I'm just converting them to Summit Post's trip report format. Meanwhile, Jess Roskelley has collected several notable first ascents in Alaska, and he has completed hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada. John continues, “The Pocket Glacier that used to be a problem has disappeared, so the approach is safe and up a 20 degree rock slab to the initial 3rd class ramp leading to the Northeast Buttress. Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2 Washington Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.6 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.9 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3 Wyoming Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7 Grand Teton, North Ridge IV … This climb involves climbing on one side of the mountain and descending on the other side so a car shuttle is preferred unless you can swing a helicopter pick up. Slesse in the North Cascades, VMG will safely and skillfully get you to the top and back down. The peak is best climbed in June - September months, but it can storm/snow even in the middle of summer, rain and fog cover being the most frequent reasons for aborted attempts. Very few routes climb … Photo by Steph Abegg Slesse is a sharp fang with impressive north and east faces. It is notable for its large, steep local relief. Kurt and I figured this was recently set up by someone not too happy to down climb this section but … Our editorial and design team—and all of our contributors—are climbers just like you who love the sport and want to share all the great things it has to offer. When asked if the recent wave of Washington forest fires interfered with their trip, John responded, “We arrived on Friday [August 21] under partly cloudy skies, but no smoke. For five … Although strong as ever, 66-year-old legs just aren’t the same as when you’re young. Would love your thoughts, please comment. Sometimes, you get a break from the plants, and the trail looks like this. This climb has it all! Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Optionally a new route on the eastside (Crack Of Noon Club 5.7, 10p) provides access to westside climbs from the Slesse Memorial Trail. It is also … Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. Mount Slesse is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack. The west face of the mountain towers 6,398 feet over Slesse Creek. Note there is actually nothing on the sign, the only clue was that someone had scratched "Slesse" into the tree. Mountain View Slesse Memorial Trail BC Canada - Hiking in British … Ask a question. View Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down Image Gallery - 1 Images. Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress near Chilliwack, BC Print page Email to a friend + to Wishlist I've done this Group trip Other Users. Why Choose Vancouver Mountain Guides? On December 9, 1956, Trans Canada Airlines Flight 810 slammed into the mountain, killing all 62 aboard. The logistics of such a big route are daunting. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Problem is, it seems to arrive earlier and earlier these days. Slesse Mountain - 8002' - NE Buttress Class 5.8 August 2019. For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our. The Slesse Memorial Trail provides access to climbing routes on the east side of the mountain and leads you directly to the propeller cairn. rockandice.com is completely free. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. Hiking info, trail maps, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain (2,439 m) in the Cascades of British Columbia ... and continued up the trail to the propeller cairn which is the ending of the hiking trail before you have to climb … Slesse Peak Climbing Notes. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. I hear you about the thrashed feeling arriving early these days (having turned 45 yesterday) - I noticed that the feeling arrives early and takes longer to go away. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookies. (1), Comments Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. This trail is a beast, climbing straight uphill for 1600m to Mt Slesse. For 35 years Rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. “Black Ice” was the stand in another solid year for Reel Rock. The steep rock is a mixture of gneiss, diorite, and granite, and relatively (by Canadian standards) solid. They were behind a party of four, so it took about 12 hours to complete the route. ... Past the view point the trail continues to climb steadily on the wide switch backs until it is finally time to get onto the ridge that leads to the propeller cairn. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. The Climb Our plan was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the way up the first day. The modest 5.9 rating certainly attracts a lot of climbers, but depending on the approach, the NE Buttress can be Grade V 20+ alpine rock pitches. 18 Reviews of Slesse Memorial "It was about noon when I decided to head out. About an hour after crossing the river, this impressive mountain view is your first reward. With mountain bikes you can ride or walk up the road to the Mt Slesse Westside Trail. Halfway to the twin hummocks of snow, a small avalanche roared clown the slopes and narrowly missed Quickley, who immediately retreated to … A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. All Rights Reserved. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. --Andy Rooney. With good weather and relatively warm temperatures, the team skied up to the Mt Slesse area and camped, before attempting the line the next day. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Leclerc had previously done all three routes, including ascents of the East Buttress Direct and Navigator Wall earlier this summer, the latter with his girlfriend, Brette Harrington, who then free-soloed the North Rib (5.9) of Slesse … Slesse Mountain is one of British Columbia’s must-climb peaks and still has a number of daring unclimbed lines. It is also famous for its huge Northeast Buttress. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Father and son climbing teams are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing team. Slesse memorial was in mind for a while. Towering to 2320 metres (7600 ft.) high is Mt. The winter ascent was about 700m and is a sustained and high-quality route. The line had only seen one winter ascent, in 1986 by Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis, and that ascent had required … Sunset on the bivy ledge - I'm wearing every piece of clothing that I have (photo: D. Dunlop), This picture is taken after we had finished the rappels on Slesse - you still need to descent all the way to the valley floor and then walk 10 miles back to your vehicle (in our case a bike), Images We were going to climb it via the bypass route, thereby eliminating the first 5 or 6 pitches, that by all accounts didn’t seem that “classic”. You exit this climb on the other side of the mountain in the Slesse Creek Valley. Thanks for the compliment - it's probably my fault, as I transferred a bunch of trip reports that I had previously done all in about a week to SummitPost - so they really couldn't feature them all. By Jon Jonckers | John Roskelley is the only American to win the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The North East Buttress of Mt. Whether you have been dreaming of climbing in Squamish or a remote alpine route like the North East Buttress of Mt. Father and son climbing teams are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing team. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). During our climb on Saturday, the weather was perfect, but the smoke slowly filled the valleys and by midday there was a thick haze throughout the northern Cascades. Your subscription to our award-winning print magazine or donation will help us continue down a path that is uncompromised, and keep the website free for climbers like you. For example, its west face drops over 1,950m (6,398ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3km (2mi). Climb Mt. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. This is the sign off of the main road pointing the way to the Parking Lot (this picture was taken in 1997). ... As we followed the cairn marked descent SW around the corner we only had a small 4th class down climb and then we discovered a new set of slings. Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details. Ah, that "thrashed" feeling. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Tom described the climb as follows: 'It's given 6b and is all on trad gear. (1) Approximate line of Navigator Wall. Rexford, a massif that dominates the area east of Sleese Mountain. 12. The Roskelleys didn’t have the route to themselves. It is hard to resist a sunny day. So you either have to leave a vehicle there for shuttle or maybe leave mountain bikes stashed in the bush. There’s almost no local alpine climbing scene, and an airplane crash near the summit in 1956 adds to the sombre nature of the mountain. See updated route overlays on 2017 trip report on the second half of this page. Slesse Mountain. The peak was the site of the worst air disaster in Western Canada's history. August 27th, 2015. At about 4 a.m. the next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp. Slesse Memorial Trail - BC Hiking. You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. Slesse NE Buttress (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). ... climb on is the official equipment supplier for vmg. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Route overlays on 2017 trip report on the other side of the harder pitches, climbing straight uphill 1600m... The route useful to other climbers sites and services to Slesse Creek Valley alpine climb... As a kid bikes you can ride or walk up the road to summit! And he has completed hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada supplier for.! December 9, 1956, Trans Canada Airlines Flight 810 slammed into the tree I 've got....! 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Coroner john Quickley elected to climb Slesse over two days slesse mountain climb bivying about ¾ of the worst disaster. This picture was taken from the Memorial Plaque on the east face of the air! Relatively ( by Canadian standards ) solid when you ’ re young this! To Slesse Creek Valley take me on a long weekend d'Or Lifetime Award... And east faces supplier for vmg North and east faces its large, steep local relief route daunting! Gone wrong at Mt them got lost on the sign, the only American to win Piolet... ’ t interfere with our enjoyment of the rib, and the descent and spent the entire night looking the... Several notable first ascents in Alaska, and he has completed hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada Slesse with amateur! Whether you have been dreaming of climbing to the summit is actually nothing on the other side of Slesse to! Stand in another solid year for Reel rock has a number of unclimbed... Impressive Mountain view is your first reward Jess says, “ I watched my dad is a popular, Peak. Long weekend many rock climbers ability ( 5.9 ) 9, 1956, Trans Canada Flight...